Gesso has been an essential part of painting for centuries. Yet not all gesso is created equal. Modern synthetic primers behave very differently from traditional gessos used for hundreds of years, and Natural Earth Paint’s Eco Gesso Kit revives this historical method, without the animal products or toxins.
Below, we explore what gesso is, how traditional and acrylic versions differ, how to use Eco Gesso effectively, and how to troubleshoot common issues such as absorbency or crumbling.

For most of art history, artists prepared their surfaces with traditional gesso made from:
This mixture created a hard, absorbent, archival surface. However, it was brittle, prone to cracking, and relied heavily on animal products, particularly rabbits. With the invention of plastics in the early 1900s, acrylic gesso became the standard. By the 1950s it had fully replaced traditional mixes. Acrylic gesso is essentially liquid plastic, containing ammonia, formaldehyde, and other toxic preservatives. Strong enough that many artists wear respirators when priming.
Acrylic gesso forms an impenetrable film, causing paint to sit on top rather than bonding with the surface. Today this is considered normal, though it is entirely different from the Renaissance approach, where painters preferred slight absorbency to ensure long-term adhesion and reduce cracking or peeling.
Natural Earth Paint’s Eco Gesso Kit is a modern, safe replica of historical gesso. But this one is vegan, using methyl cellulose (plant-based glue) in place of rabbit skin glue. This creates:
Because the kit is not premixed, it contains no harsh chemicals and has a long shelf life when stored dry. Once mixed with water, it remains usable for up to a year.
Methyl cellulose is a plant-derived polymer that acts as a vegan, archival glue. It’s widely used in food, cosmetics, and art materials and is non-allergenic and non-toxic.
If your surface absorbs too much paint or produces small crumbs, the mixture likely contains too little methyl cellulose. That means the dry particles aren’t bound tightly enough.
How to Fix It:
This adjustment creates a smoother surface with less suction and prevents powdery texture.
Yes! If you've already applied a layer of paint and the surface still feels too absorbent, you can brush a thin layer of pure methyl cellulose over the existing paint and allow it to dry completely. This creates a sealed, stable layer without needing to start from scratch.
Not necessarily. Many historic oil paintings (including the Mona Lisa) were painted directly onto raw wood. Painting directly on wood creates a washed first layer as the oils soak in, while later layers sit on top.
Artists may choose to:
Both are valid approaches depending on the desired aesthetic.

Check out the video below to learn how to prime your canvasses naturally.